Madcasse 70% Cocoa from MadagascarBy
In sampling Madecasse’s Arabica Coffee and Cinnamon & Sakay, I’ve developed a respect for the fledgling brand. Besides doing the blends right, using delicious coffee nibs, sea salt, cinnamon, and indigenous ingredients like sakay, Madecasse has proven it can make both a delicious milk-chocolate based bar and a darker bar.
Considering the company already makes a 63% blend bar with nothing added to it, it’s surprising to also see a 70% bar on the product list. Both 63% and 70% are in the same ‘dark’ range. Take Whittaker’s. They manufacture a 62% bar, the Dark Cacao. And also a 72%, the Dark Ghana. That’s 10 points between the two, quite normal. Plenty of brands offer both a 70% and an 80%. But a 63% and a 70% as well as a 75%? Only masters like La Molina attempt this. Madecasse is marching to the beat of their own Djembe drum.
The 70% is at the entrance of heavy dark territory. You don’t use bittersweet as an adjective with cacao solids over 70%. And yet the chocolate is no more bitter than a 50% made by lesser operators. My wife doesn’t like real dark chocolate. I force fed bits of the 70%, and she, too, agreed that this was light on the mouth. Madagascan cacao is known for its fruity character and it lessens the acidity you’d typically experience with a bar this dark. If the Madecasse’s milk chocolate is a “dark” milk chocolate, as they describe it, their 70% dark is a light dark chocolate.
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