/ Doug's Chocolate Republic /
Review: Chocovic Kendari
Posted: 13 October 2010
The Kendari actually wasn't bad for a 60% cacao bar. It had a very unique taste, satisfactory, a journey worth taking once.
But I wouldn't be quick to eat it again, especially at these prices.
price/gram: USD 0.082
Cocoa %: 60
The Spaniards' elite line of
Chocovic offers up the Kendari bar for their light dark
contender. Kendari is not the darkest bar
Chocovic makes in its Selvatica Couverture line. That
distinction belongs to the Tarakan with 75% cacao.
While I ripped new orifices
in Chocovic for their
Jaina (31% white) and
milk), I did temper my criticism by mentioning that
Chocovic seemed to know what they were doing overall.
On their (poorly organized) web site, Chocovic offers
taster's notes. The Kendari is described with an aroma
of fine cacao with a hint of acidic fruit, moss, and moist
plants; the taste, just enough sugar, fresh opening with a
touch of acidity, turning to soft licorice and woody plant
flavors. You're lucky the Kendari doesn't really taste
like that. If it did, I'm sure you wouldn't go near
The Kendari actually wasn't
bad for a 60% cacao bar. It had a very unique taste,
satisfactory, a journey worth taking once. But I wouldn't
be quick to eat it again, especially at these prices. As I
ate it and sifted through Chocovic's rich knowledge of
chocolate, I wondered how a school this fanatical about
chocolate could produce bars that should score this low.
I came up with a theory.
Unlike any other chocolatier
I've studied since the noble Chocolate Republic was founded,
Chocovic goes to the trouble to categorize its bars by
melting point, tempering temperature, and use temperature.
Most importantly, there is a recommended use section for
each bar. The Kendari and the Tarakan are for truffles
and ganache, praline for bonbon interiors, and mousse.
Other manufacturers whose premium bars I've tasted didn't
advise tasters to melt the bars and turn them into baker's
delights. My conclusion is that the Selvaticas range
makes for a weak choice for snack and dessert chocolate and
is more optimally used, gram for gram, in cakes, ice cream,
and drinking chocolate, just as Chocovic advises.
So I stick with my ratings.
Doug's Chocolate Republic judges bars by how they taste and
feel (and impact the wallet) right out of the wrapper.
In the hands of a master chocolatier, I wouldn't be the
least bit surprised if the Kendari scored a 9 once combined
into some chocolatey dessert item. But we don't judge here
what could be. We judge for what is. From the
shelf directly to your mouth, you could do much better.
Spain has Chocovic Selvaticas as a bar. It's Spanish chocolate, very dark chocolate, with 60% cocoa solids. Like dark chocoalte?
The Chocolate Republic with Doug at Doug's Republic reviews this great bar called Kendari.