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Home / Doug's Chocolate Republic  /   Review: Chocovic Kendari

     
Chocovic Kendari 
Posted: 13 October 2010    6.0 
Chocovic Kendari The Kendari actually wasn't bad for a 60% cacao bar. It had a very unique taste, satisfactory, a journey worth taking once. But I wouldn't be quick to eat it again, especially at these prices.    
Avg price/gram: USD 0.082   Cocoa %: 60  Size: 73g  Spain chocolate 
       


The Spaniards' elite line of Chocovic offers up the Kendari bar for their light dark contender.   Kendari is not the darkest bar Chocovic makes in its Selvatica Couverture line.  That distinction belongs to the Tarakan with 75% cacao.     

While I ripped new orifices in Chocovic for their Jaina (31% white) and Nayarit (37% milk),  I did temper my criticism by mentioning that Chocovic seemed to know what they were doing overall.  On their (poorly organized) web site, Chocovic offers taster's notes.  The Kendari is described with an aroma of fine cacao with a hint of acidic fruit, moss, and moist plants; the taste, just enough sugar, fresh opening with a touch of acidity, turning to soft licorice and woody plant flavors.  You're lucky the Kendari doesn't really taste like that.  If it did, I'm sure you wouldn't go near it. 

The Kendari actually wasn't bad for a 60% cacao bar.  It had a very unique taste, satisfactory, a journey worth taking once. But I wouldn't be quick to eat it again, especially at these prices. As I ate it and sifted through Chocovic's rich knowledge of chocolate, I wondered how a school this fanatical about chocolate could produce bars that should score this low.  I came up with a theory.

Unlike any other chocolatier I've studied since the noble Chocolate Republic was founded, Chocovic goes to the trouble to categorize its bars by melting point, tempering temperature, and use temperature.  Most importantly, there is a recommended use section for each bar.  The Kendari and the Tarakan are for truffles and ganache, praline for bonbon interiors, and mousse.  Other manufacturers whose premium bars I've tasted didn't advise tasters to melt the bars and turn them into baker's delights.  My conclusion is that the Selvaticas range makes for a weak choice for snack and dessert chocolate and is more optimally used, gram for gram, in cakes, ice cream, and drinking chocolate, just as Chocovic advises. 

So I stick with my ratings.  Doug's Chocolate Republic judges bars by how they taste and feel (and impact the wallet) right out of the wrapper.  In the hands of a master chocolatier, I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if the Kendari scored a 9 once combined into some chocolatey dessert item. But we don't judge here what could be.  We judge for what is.  From the shelf directly to your mouth, you could do much better.    


If you liked reading this, consider savoring these reviews:
 Lindt Swiss Gold Milk Hazelnut from Switzerland -- 31% cocoa solids
 Haigh Dark Chocolate from Australia -- 70% cocoa solids
 The Complete Chocolate Republic Index

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The Harry Dandruff Universe

  Spain has Chocovic Selvaticas as a bar. It's Spanish chocolate, very dark chocolate, with 60% cocoa solids. Like dark chocoalte? The Chocolate Republic with Doug at Doug's Republic reviews this great bar called Kendari.