/ Doug's Chocolate Republic /
Review: Anthon Berg Soft Dark
Anthon Berg Soft Dark
Posted: 19 September 2011
The bar is composed of common type forastero beans grown in Ghana and conforms to international Fairtrade standards should you be the type of person who only enjoys chocolate if you think the farmer
isn't screwed on the sale of his cacao.
The Soft Dark is mild for a 57% bar, but not too mild. I couldn't figure out where the 'Soft' in the title came in. The bar was no softer or cuddlier than any other chocolate bar I've sampled in this range.
price/gram: USD 0.043
Cocoa %: 57
In Aussie Dave's latest
chocolate parcel, there was great rhyme and reason in the
order in which I sampled the bars. In the beginning, I
tried and compared all the bars he'd sent that were around
70% in cocoa solids. For the end of the
sampling, I left two bars in the mid-50% range, the
Hachez Cocoa de
Maracaibo, billed as a milk, and this Anthon Berg,
billed as a dark.
Who the hell is Anthon Berg,
you're asking? I asked the identical question.
The company has been around since 1884 and the company holds
a royal warrant from the Danish Court. Is this
prestigious? I don't know. There are
approximately 100 purveyors to the Danish Court.
Denmark's not a big country, has a small population, and
probably doesn't have a helluva lot of indigenous chocolate
companies. The Royal Danish Court wouldn't use Cadbury
or Hershey or Lindt to satisfy Danish royals' chocolate
Like all other European
chocolate companies more than a century old, Anthon Berg has
its mythology of quality. Berg was a green grocer in
Copenhagen and produced a brilliant tasting chocolate in his
back rooms. People all over Copenhagen wanted a piece
and lined up to get it. His son, Gustav, eventually took the
company over and promised Daddy he wouldn't let the quality
slide an iota. Sounds like a tearjerker, and some
Danish filmmaker has probably already made a movie about it.
The bar is composed of common
type forastero beans grown in Ghana and conforms to
international Fairtrade standards should you be the type of
person who only enjoys chocolate if you think the farmer
isn't screwed on the sale of his cacao. Anthon Berg
describes the bar as "a deliciously creamy experience with a
surprisingly mild yet intense flavor -- and bound to linger
in your mouth."
I'd say, overall, that Anthon Berg
executes better in this cocoa range than Hachez. The
Soft Dark is mild for a 57% bar, but not too mild. I
couldn't figure out where the 'Soft' in the title came in.
The bar was no softer or cuddlier than any other chocolate
bar I've sampled in this range.
Everyone knows sugar -- or
today, some other kind of sweetener -- forms a huge
component of all conventional chocolate. Anthon Berg
uses the real thing, at 42% of the content, and the problem
is that you taste too much of it. What lingered in my mouth
wasn't the "mild yet intense flavor," as Anthon Berg
promised, but the overly intense sweetness. I expect
sugar abuse in low quality brands, not a purveyor to the
Royal Danish Court.
In Europe, the bar is
affordable. Outside Europe, you can pay 60-75% more.
Usually, it's the other way around, with the Europeans
getting fleeced on items that can be bought much more
If you're in Denmark, stop by
the Royal Danish Court for a taste. If you're anywhere
else -- well, you probably won't even be able to find anyone
who's ever heard of it. For now, Lego still remains
Denmark's biggest innovation.