/ Doug's Chocolate Republic /
Review: Hachez Cocoa De Maracaibo
Hachez Cocoa De Maracaibo
Posted: 19 September 2011
Hachez blunts the bittersweet tastes you'd normally expect
in a 55% bar made from premium cocoas sourced in Venezuela
by adding in 18% milk solids. I would love to write here
that this is a great innovative move by the Belgian-descended founder. Unfortunately, I cannot. The resultant taste seems more like an oily bar with under 25% cocoa solid content.
price/gram: USD 0.041
Cocoa %: 55
Aussie Dave's recent
chocolate parcel contained a lot of food for thought.
Yep, there were a lot of bars and a lot to think about it
besides "Which bar will I sample first?"
Hachez was one of the more
unusual bars Aussie Dave mailed over. Looking at
the brand, Hachez, and the name of the bar, Cocoa de
Maracaibo, you'd think this bar must be from Spain or at least
some Spanish-speaking country. You'd be wrong.
The bar hails from Germany. Then you glance down at
the cocoa solid content. It's not 55% or 56%.
That wouldn't be perfection according to Joseph Emile Hachez's
recipes from the year 1890. His simple concoctions required some kind of fractional amount of cocoa
solid content. And the last out-of-the-ordinary thing
about this bar is its type. Hachez calls this a "rich
and smooth milk chocolate."
Digest that for a second.
Of all the milk chocolates reviewed on the Chocolate
Republic thus far, none had a cocoa solid content over 40%,
more typically under 35%. Whittaker's bittersweets are
currently at 50%. Cadbury passes off some of their 47%
cocoa solid chocolates as "dark." And yet here we have
a manufacturer, using 55.5% cocoa solid content, calling
their bar a milk. Hachez's mission, as specified on
the back of the wrapper, is to create "cocoa-intense but
mild chocolate compositions." Hachez blunts the
bittersweet tastes you'd normally expect in a 55% bar made
from premium cocoas sourced in Venezuela by adding in 18%
I would love to write here
that this is a great innovative move by the
Belgian-descended founder. Unfortunately, I
cannot. The resultant taste seems more like an oily
bar with under 25% cocoa solid content. Whittaker's Milk Madagascar with
just 33% cocoa solid content has a more full bodied milk
chocolate taste than this Cocoa de Maracaibo and costs less
to boot. The Cocoa de Maracaibo is probably "lovingly
crafted [with] the outstanding ingredients," but since when
did lovingly crafting something with good inputs guarantee a
tremendously delicious output? My 10-year old stepson
lovingly crafted a cake using superb ingredients I purchased.
The kitchen was left a mess and the superb ingredients were
burnt to a cinder. I'd rather have a chocolate bar
that was angrily crafted using average ingredients, as long
as the manufacturer had some damned good recipes he could
put together in his bad mood
It's almost like Hachez
wants it both ways. They're showing off that they're
using high cocoa solids as they try to appeal to the larger
milk chocolate market. This mild game appears to be their
hallmark. The company also manufacturers a 77% and an 88%
but bills the bars as mild. One aspect that could be more
mild, but ain't, is the price. Here, I displayed
the absolutely lowest price the bar was for sale in Europe.
The price Aussie Dave paid and the price I expect it's for
sale in most non-European markets is 60-70% more than what
When you're in a Chinese restaurant, you don't order a hamburger.
And when you go for a 55%, you want it dark. If this were apartheid-era South Africa, then I'd understand why Hachez was trying to pass off
a dark-skinned bar as a light-skinned one. In the modern era, it just feels like a scam.