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Home / Doug's Chocolate Republic  /   Review:Frey Tiramisu

     
Frey Tiramisu 
Posted: 22 September 2011    4.0 
Frey Tiramisu Too bad Frey doesn't know what it's doing. Imagine a mediocre chocolate maker combining his subpar milk chocolates with a sloppy tiramisu recipe and calling the final product innovative. That atrocity is this bar.   The chocolate had a slippery sleazy feel, just like its manufacturer.   
Avg price/gram: USD 0.031   Cocoa %: 37  Size: 100g  Swiss chocolate 
       


I'll summarize Frey in the very sentence they print on the back of their chocolate bar wrappers:  "Frey is the best selling chocolate and therefore number 1 in Switzerland." 

Is that good English?  Is it clever?  Does it make Frey stand out?  Not really.  Actually, it's misleading, just like Frey's chocolates are.  It would've sufficed for Frey to say "Frey is Switzerland's best-selling chocolate" and leave it at that.  Being the best selling may make you number 1 . . . or it may not.   Actually, whether Frey is or isn't Switzerland's best selling chocolate is open for interpretation.  It is, if you measure the amount of chocolate produced and sold by Frey's factories. It isn't if you discount all the private-label branding Frey does, where the consumers don't even know they're buying a chocolate manufactured by Frey. Frey only started pushing out its own brand of chocolates around 2007.

Frey hasn't impressed me in the past and I wouldn't have gone near them again if the choice were mine. I was grocery shopping with my wife in an upmarket grocery store called Gourmet Market. As we were approaching the checkout aisle, of course what do we see but chocolates.  Grocery stores know that placing the junk food just before the checkout counter always grabs a few extra bucks out of your wallet.  My wife loves tiramisu, and when she saw the name on this Frey bar, she knew she wanted to try it.  She wasn't concerned about the brand. The chocolates could be from Switzerland or Sudan. She didn't know or care.

Tiramisu is one of those desserts I didn't know about, then one day did, then thought in retrospect I always knew about it.  Doing some research on tiramisu for this article, I realize I couldn't have always known about it.  Depending upon whose account you believe, tiramisu as an Italian dessert was invented sometime between the end of 1969 and 1980.  It's a new dessert -- ladyfingers quickly dipped in coffee to hold their shape, later assembled with zabaglione (a mix of egg yolks, sugar, Marsala, lemon zest, and vanilla extract), pastry cream, and mascarpone cheese.  I love the stuff.   I've sampled it more in close to 5 years in Thailand than I ever did in my entire life leading up to that.         

Too bad mass producer Frey doesn't know what it's doing.  Imagine a mediocre chocolate maker combining his subpar milk chocolates with a sloppy tiramisu recipe and calling the final product innovative.  That atrocity is this bar.  Really, how could this chocolate or tiramisu be good?  The chocolate contains vegetable oils so Frey can reduce the amount of more expensive cocoa butter.  The tiramisu part uses mascarpone powder, not real mascarpone cheese.   

Frey's Tiramisu is too sweet.  The bar is very thin and you don't get a sense of the various layers you'd be relishing in a real (well-made) tiramisu.  The chocolate had a slippery sleazy feel, just like its manufacturer.    

The tiramisu at the hotel where my wife works costs about the same as this bar, after you apply her employee discount.  I'll be heading over to her hotel the next time and drop this one in the trash bin on the way out.   

If you liked reading this, consider savoring these reviews:
 Lotte Ghana Mild from Korea -- 25% cocoa solids
 Ritter Sport Whole Hazelnuts from Germany -- 30% cocoa solids
 The Complete Chocolate Republic Index


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