/ Doug's Chocolate Republic /
Review: Ghirardelli Espresso Escape
Ghirardelli Espresso Escape
Posted: 19 October 2011
Ghirardelli likes to toss about the word 'complex,' probably because their bars are anything but.
This bar is a wasted opportunity. here doesn't seem to be a lot of coffee taste in this one. Most of the flavor must have escaped. Now I know why this bar's called Espresso Escape.
price/gram: USD 0.043
Cocoa %: 60
There really is a rhyme and
reason to the way I review my chocolate bars. Burma
Mike's latest batch of 29 bars left me with such a
monumental task of consuming, then burning off the calories,
then writing about each bar sampled. Which bars to eat
first? And once eaten, which bars to eat second?
In this Republic, we take a
scientific approach. If I try one brand's milk, the
next bar could be a competing brand's milk. Or the
next bar could be another offering by the same brand, using
the same milk base, but with different fillings. In
the case of Theo, I tried their
Milk, then tried their
Coconut Curry, which
is their milk base infused with a collection of spices.
Burma Mike had also brought
over a large range of coffees from small Seattle roasters,
and I'd begun to sample a few of those coffees. Coffee
was on the mind. I reached into Burma Mike's
chocolate parcel and pulled this and a
coffee bar put out by
the Seattle Chocolate Company. I love seeing how two different companies
run in different directions with a similar flavor.
Ghirardelli Espresso Escape is another in San Francisco
'premium' all-natural range. Like the
the Espresso Escape has its own set of taster notes: "The
deep roasted beans deliver a robust, full-bodied espresso
flavor that is in perfect harmony with the chocolate with
dark cherry hints and a spicy character. Aromatic espresso
notes shine through its creamy smooth texture. Complex
on the palate, this succulent bar has remarkable depth and
brightness of flavor."
One thing I've
learned from experience is that when someone goes out of his or her way to
say "I'm so happy, my life is perfect," he's doing so to
convince himself. In other words, he's not happy, and
his life isn't perfect. Ghirardelli likes to toss
about the word 'complex,' probably because their bars are
anything but. The taster's notes should really be
written by a chocolate lover, not by someone in the
This bar is a
wasted opportunity. 60% cacao solids are fine for an
espresso bar -- well, if the dark chocolate base is good to
begin with. Ghirardelli's dark has milk fat an an
ingredient and milk features as another ingredient, in
greater concentration than the coffee and coffee oil added
to give the bar that espresso taste. There doesn't
seem to be a lot of coffee taste in this one. Most of
the flavor must have escaped. Now I know why this
bar's called Espresso Escape.
'complex' flavor Ghirardelli boasts of is milked down dark
chocolate plus sparing amounts of coffee, with coffee oil
added, too, to fool our taste buds there's more coffee in
here than actually is. It's better than average, but
not by much.
should affix a word of warning onto the back of this one:
"Suitable for teetotalers. Only trace amounts of
coffee were used in the manufacture of this product."
Let Starbucks rip you off the price of an espresso rather
than get ripped off buying this bar.