/ Doug's Chocolate Republic /
Review: Theo Orange
Posted: 16 November 2011
Theo opts for the orange oil flavoring. It's
always a better move to underplay rather than overplay the
orange, and Theo wisely doesn't overstate it. There's enough
orange flavor here to enhance the 70% bittersweet chocolate
and make the taster appreciate the dark chocolate.
price/gram: USD 0.048
Cocoa %: 70
As we detailed in our review
of Theo's Fig Fennel &
Almond, Theo is a good brand to have on your table,
especially if you live in Washington state where it's
convenient to buy them.
You can brag to your friends how environmentally aware you
are and sound like a chocolate expert even if the only thing
you know about chocolate is that it begins with the letter
'c'. If a Hollywood celebrity mentioned Theo, fair
trade, and organic in a soundbite, you might actually think
that Hollywood celebrity was deep.
Theo is like a competent
actor who turns in better-than-average performances.
It never hurts to have Theo on your team. But
Theo needs assistance. Bare, as in Theo's
Milk Chocolate, you can
firmly taste Theo is quality, but not lead, material.
Crammed with support, as in
coconut curry flavoring
or figs and almonds,
Theo is fine for an indulgence. Just think of the
actor Matt LeBlanc. He worked well playing Joey in
Friends. When he went front and center as the
star of Joey, it was too much to process.
Almond, hazelnut, caramel --
even corporate hogs paying little regard to quality like
Cadbury and Hershey can execute those decently.
Orange bars are not an easy combination to do well.
Whittaker's makes fine chocolate, yet their
orange was a
monstrosity. A fruit bar is easier said than done, choco-lovers.
Do you put chunks of the fruit into the chocolate?
Do you add a fruit-flavored oil? Both? If the
fruit tastes too artificial, you've got a problem; if you
put too much or too little in, you've got a problem; if the
fruit is too sour or sweet, you've got a problem.
Theo opts for the orange oil
flavoring. No chunks in this one like that Whittaker's
orange atrocity which, story has it, killed thousands
in New Zealand from crappy orange flavor overload, .
It's always a better move to underplay rather than overplay
the orange, and Theo wisely doesn't overstate it.
There's enough orange flavor here to enhance the 70%
bittersweet American chocolate and make the taster appreciate the
Warning: this is for
orange chocolate lovers, only. Anti-fruiters won't be
persuaded to go fruity from Theo's experiment. For a
full life-changing orange experience, Bendicks'
be the way to go.