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Review: Theo Ultimate Dark Chocolate
Theo Ultimate Dark Chocolate
Posted: 25 November 2011
7.5
Theo's got the chops, all right, meeting the quality and
taste set by the famous Green & Black's. Keeping things
pure, Theo has done as little as possible to modify their
Dark 70% to Ultimate Dark 85%. With more cacao, the fiber
content rises from 8 grams per bar to 10 grams, but leaves
less room for additional sugar, which drops from 24 grams
per bar in the Dark to just 14 grams in the Ultimate Dark. With such a pure cacao-for-sugar jump, you'd expect an equivalent jump in bitterness, but that never arrives.
Avg
price/gram: USD 0.048
Cocoa %: 85
Size: 84g
Burma Mike brought over 29
American chocolate bars, most dark. Only two of the
bars exceeded 80% cacao content, Theo's Ultimate Dark
from Washington and
the Ghirardelli
Midnight Reverie from California. I saved them for last.
Not because I saved the best for last. After reviewing
stackloads of bars on the Chocolate Republic, I've noticed that
extreme dark bars, with greater than 80% cacao, are not my
favorites. I am a dark chocolate aficionado, but more
in the semisweet range of 60-65%.
These bars got stuck in the refrigerator the longest because
they were the exceptions. The other bars were mostly
60-70% and could be compared amongst each other.
These two bars stood alone.
Pulling off an acceptable
ultra dark is tough. With 80%+ cacao solids, you have
less percentage left on the ingredient list to cram in much
else. Carrefour did a credible job with
its 80%, and Green
& Black's deserves kudos for
their 85% organic. Many a manufacturer won't go above 70% because they
know they don't have the chops.
Theo's got the chops, all
right, meeting the quality and taste set by the famous Green
& Black's and also being organic and fair trade. Keeping things pure, Theo has done as
little as possible to modify their
Dark 70% to Ultimate
Dark 85%. The calorie content remains the same, but
the fat content has risen from 300 calories per bar to 340
calories in line with the higher cocoa butter content.
With more cacao, the fiber content rises from 8 grams per
bar to 10 grams, but leaves less room for additional sugar,
which drops from 24 grams per bar in the Dark to just 14
grams in the Ultimate Dark. With such a pure cacao-for-sugar jump,
you'd expect an equivalent jump in bitterness, but that
never arrives. Theo's 85% performance is worthy of applause.
85% is about the highest I'd
typically go with a chocolate bar. Lindt offers a
99% bar, but I consider
it a gimmick. With 99% of the bar pure cacao, nearly
everything comes down to where the cacao beans are sourced
and hardly anything else to the expertise of the chocolate
manufacturer. Willie's out of the UK sells 100% cacao
blocks, delicious in their own right. These are not
sold as snacking bars, but as cooking chocolate.
Theo's been a studious child.
This 85% bar proves they're worthy of a diploma.
chocolate out of Washington is Theo. I like it dark. Dark chocolate from Theo shows
that American chocolate that is organic and fair trade is tasty and can be ultimate dark. Make it ultimate dark and you are set, maestro!