/ Doug's Chocolate Republic /
Review: Lindt Dark Hazelnut
Lindt Dark Hazelnut
Posted: 23 July 2012
Lindt's dark chocolate is merely okay, definitely above average, definitely superior to anything Cadbury, Hershey, Marabou, and their ilk could fashion, but nothing to
immigrate to Switzerland for. The hazelnut content is adequate, and the combination works sufficiently enough in a darkish nut bar.
price/gram: USD 0.037
Cocoa %: 49
I have a love-hate
relationship with Lindt after all the Lindt bars I've
reviewed on this site.
Here's what I love.
They're a mainstream chocolate producer making chocolate
well above what you'd expect any mainstream chocolate
producer to be making. Despite Frey's claims to be
Switzerland's best selling chocolate, remove all of Frey's
private label manufacturing from its total sales, and I'd
wager Lindt outsells Frey in both foreign and domestic
markets. Lindt is easily the best known Swiss
chocolate maker to all non-Swiss chocopiles. This makes Lindt the Hershey (US), Cadbury
(UK/Australia/India), or Marabou (Sweden) of Switzerland,
and yet Lindt is orders of magnitude better than any of
those other operations.
And here's what I hate.
Lindt can't just embrace its role as King of the Chocolate
Brands of Switzerland. The company also tries to portray
itself as a master chocolatier using age-old European
chocolate-fabrication techniques with only the finest
ingredients. That's complete and utter hogwash. Lindt
wants to have its (chocolate) cake and eat it, too.
If Lindt wants to be judged
as the mainstream chocolate producer they really are,
they're worth lauding. If Lindt also wants kudos for
employing five-star chocolate methods with the freshest
produce, they're worth mocking.
The Lindt Dark Hazelnut bar
is not a risky undertaking. In the past on this
site I've reviewed Lindt's
Swiss Gold Milk
Hazelnut and the Les
Grandes 33% Hazelnut Milk. Those two are essentially the same
bar, but the latter has 33% hazelnut content and the former
just 20%. The Lindt Dark Hazelnut contains the same typical
20% concentration of hazelnuts but in Lindt's 'dark'
chocolate. This is where Lindt's mainstream
tendencies creep in, the part I hate. A real maestro in
chocolate-making would not consider 49% cocoa solids to be dark. This chocolate would be
Hazelnut." A dark hazelnut bar would be comprised of
60% or more of cocoa solids. The mainstreamers are the
exaggerators. To Cadbury, a dark is something with 40%
cacao in it. On the back of the wrapper, in English, Lindt doesn't even admit the percentage of cocoa solids, a sure sign of a non-premium producer. I had
to skim the ingredient listing in Polish to uncover the
cocoa content. It must be required in Poland to list the
cocoa solid content on every bar.
It is not unusual for a
mainstream producer's forte to be in the production of
cheaper, easier-to-make milk chocolate bars. Dark
chocolate bars use, by definition, more cacao, and for a
better taste, more proficient chocolate manufacturing
expertise is required. Lindt is no exception.
Their dark chocolate is merely okay, definitely above
average, definitely superior to anything Cadbury, Hershey,
Marabou, and their ilk could fashion, but nothing to
immigrate to Switzerland for. The hazelnut content is
adequate, and the combination works sufficiently enough in a
darkish nut bar.
I wouldn't propose to your
girlfriend with this bar, but I might consider having it for
dessert on, say, a seventh anniversary dinner or as an
amicable parting gift if you're suggesting to your wife you
want a divorce.