/ Doug's Chocolate Republic /
Review: Hammond's Peanut Butter Cup
Hammond's Peanut Butter Cup
Posted: 24 October 2012
Carl Hammond's motto was "Nothing is more important than quality." Carl's motto, while not a statement most people would debate, doesn't mean he was actually practicing it.
This is not good chocolate. Not by a long shot. Hammond's Candies is a quality poseur, charging premium prices for detritus that should be hawked at a dollar store.
price/gram: USD 0.047
Cocoa %: 34*
*Estimated cocoa percentage
"Hammond's Candies . . . since
1920." This is the one advantage an older company
always has over a younger one. An older company,
no matter how bad, can put up a banner that reads "since
[some year in the distant past]." The thinking goes
that if a company has been around 50, 75, 100 years, then by
default, it must be good. Hammond's Candies proves with its
Peanut Butter Cup that older isn't always better.
Hammond's Candy Company was
founded by Carl T. Hammond in Denver, Colorado almost a
hundred years ago. In perusing the company's history,
I noticed that Hammond's seemed to specialize more in the making of
confectionary products than fine chocolate. Hammond's
first signature recipe was honey ko kos, chocolates topped
with shredded coconut. Those origins don't point the
future way for the development of fine chocolate bars that
stand on their own.
Carl Hammond's motto was "Nothing is
more important than quality." Well, Anheuser-Busch claims that their Budweiser beer is brewed
from the "choicest hops, rice, and best barley malt," and we know that ain't
true. As I discuss
company ever formulated an official motto that the most
inferior ingredients or most terrible service is best? Carl's motto, while not a statement most people would
debate, doesn't mean he was actually practicing it. If I
were to say, "Nothing is more important than the love of a
good woman," can one assume I am enjoying that love? I may
be associating with bad, sleazy women,
yet still make the very valid statement that the love of a good woman trumps all. You see where I'm going with this.
My wife picked up this bar
for me at Denver International Airport on her way to San
Francisco. This is not good chocolate. Not by a long
shot. I forgive her. She meant well. The dark
chocolate isn't very dark. No quality
manufacturer would use the word 'dark' unless he were
sticking in cocoa solids greater than 50%. Hammond's
Peanut Butter Cup has an (estimated) cocoa solid content of
34%. The reason that it's estimated is because Hammond's
wouldn't respond to three separate e-mails asking for the
exact amount. I and my stepson could barely taste the
peanut filling. This bar is called Peanut Butter Cup,
for Christ's sakes. There must not have been much peanut filling to begin with,
and thank heavens for that. The peanut filling
contains hydrogenated vegetable oils. Hasn't Hammond's
woken up to the fact that consumers don't want trans-fats in
their "quality" chocolates.
Hammond's Candies is a quality
poseur, charging premium prices for detritus that should
be hawked at a dollar store. Perhaps Carl was really manufacturing quality stuff back in his day when Hammond's Candies
was an independent operation. The company was sold in 1999 and then sold again in 2007.
The stuff for sale today may just be mass-produced schlock
coasting under a near-century old brand name. If you believe the dreck on their own
web site, its cholesterol-clogging wares are now to be found in the UK, Spain, Korea, Japan, Israel, and other areas. I can vouch that all those
countries can produce better chocolate than this, but I'm sure none of them produce chocolate as old as this.
Do you like peanut butter in
your chocolate? Stick to Reese's Peanut Butter Cups.
They contain no hydrogenated oils and cost less than half
the price per gram. Save your health and save some money.